Basics of Brows and how they frame the face

I met a lovely woman this week at my Toolboxmakeup salon and during a conversation about her new hair style I took notice to her brows. Now most of the time when I am going to change someone’s brows it is because they came to me for a brow wax or tint.  Well this guest did neither, she didn’t ask me my opinion or what I thought of them but in light of her new hair style and based on our conversation she was totally looking for anything to perk up her current look and anything to feel great about herself. 

I took notice in the fact that she had ordinary eye brows. Her eyebrows had a nice shape but needed just a little clean up and filler. I asked her if it would be okay to touch them up so she can see how much eye brows frame the face and completely change the finished look of a makeover.  Fortunately my boldness paid off because she was happy I asked and allowed me to work my magic.

The first thing we did was add a small amount of natural concealer  on the eye lid and under the eye, this gave her an immediate eye lift as one of her major concerns was the dark circles under her eyes. Then I brushed her brows up and out to see the actual shape she currently had.  I always teach as I work because most women want to know how to do what I do. 

adding makeup below the eyes

Photo /Do This! Not This! / By

After we neutralized the skin tone, I simply added a natural brown brow pencil in light sweeping motions to mimic an actual hair strand. You must use a very light hand as you do not want to look like you just used a sharpie marker! 

With just those two simple tricks she was wowed!! She truly looked younger and felt like I gave her an eye lift in less than 2 minutes. 

eyebrow makeover tools

Photo / Eyebrow Makeover Tools / Source

I see all kinds of brows and so often I want to fix them but there is no easy way to say it without just saying it and that is not always received well.   So here are a few tips that can make shaping your brows easier and hopefully help you to create brows that wow!

 6 Easy tips to sculpt the perfect brow..

how to determine the shape for eye makeup

Photo / How to Shape Eyebrows / Source: zalacliphairextensions


Take note of this rule, it can be the most important because if you tweeze too far into the brow you will likely alter the shape and create an un-natural and unappealing shape. You can see by the model above the triangle, the inner eye and side of your nose is where the brow should start, the outer corner of eye is where the brow should end and the arch is going to fall either in the middle of the pupal or just to the outer corner of the pupal depending on the eye shape. 

Rule Number 2- Comb First!

Comb them first, brush the brows up and out to see exactly where the hairs fall, this can tell you a lot.  It will show you where you may need to fill in with a brow pencil or powder and also show you if the hairs are long and need to be trimmed. 

Rule Number 3 – Trim Second

Trimming should be before any “tweeze” or wax, it is very common to think that a hair needs to be removed when in fact it only needed to be trimmed. This will avoid the awkward eye brow hole!

Rule Number 4- Determine shape and desired end look

The rich and famous are all over the media and we often see looks that we want to recreate for ourselves, well you cannot have thick full brows if you don’t have the hair to build on a full brow but you can make them fuller than they naturally are.  Make sure you have all the tools you need.  Here is a list of some items you may want on hand:

  • Brow powder
  • Brow pencil-to match you hair color by a shade lighter or darker
  • Brow gel
  • Brow brush
  • Highlighter


Rule Number 5- Less is more

The most flattering brow and finished look are the ones that leave people guessing.  If someone can look at you and see your layers of makeup or the pencil line of your newly shaped brow then you may have used too much.  Beauty is always in the eye of the beholder but when we think of the most natural and healthy looks we tend to think of simplicity and clean.  Create your finished look with that in mind.  When shaping your brows use a light touch and feather the strokes. This will allow you to make them look fuller and more natural.  The purpose is to give the illusion of this being your brow and not penciled in or filled in. See this before and after…

Rule Number 6- Highlight and Conceal

After you have created the brow shape and color that you like you can then give it a pop and really make a profound statement by adding a small amount of highlighter just under the bottom of the brow. This will give the illusion of a higher arch and more definition.   If you are short on time in the morning a simple concealer under the eye paired with the perfect fill and shape can give an instant eye lift and brighten the whole eye area.

So there you have it, the perfect brow.  If in doubt you can always schedule an appointment with a professional Esthetician and they will help you get the shape that best suits your face.  Be realistic about what can happen and always be as natural as possible as this will make you look fresh, youthful and healthy.  Brows can be the frame for your face and will help draw the eye to you in a flattering way. 

before and after eyebrow look after makeup

Photo / How I Fill in Eyebrows / Source: She Said Beauty

The opportunities to create that perfect look, matching your eyebrow shaping to your hairstyle and makekup is a proven way to enhance your look.

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Heather Cooper

Heather Cooper

Heather has extensive experience having worked in various salons and spas in Ohio and Indiana focusing on skin care, manicuring-pedicuring, makeup and many other spa services and treatments.

She is a master manicurist with Creative Nail design and certified with OPI Nail Products as well as certified in Bio-elements skin care and techniques. She is Wedding Wire rated for Bridal Makeup. Contact Toolbox Studio Salon, 2037 Madison Rd. Cincinnati, Ohio 45208. Lower level in O'Bryonville
Heather Cooper
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